Cycle, Camp and Camera in the Highlands: more cycling with two intrepid adventurers.
A scarce cycling account, written by E.E. Henderson and J. Walker, and published in 1905 by John Cossar in Govan, and John Menzies & Co.
The second account of a cycling tour that particularly interests me was written in two parts, the first by E.E. Henderson, and the second by John Walker. It was published in 1905. They describe "separate touring experiences", but clearly adopted a similar approach, somehow taking a tent and cooking apparatus with them as well as cumbersome photographic equipment. All their accounts are accompanied by some rather small, grainy photos, which in themselves are small miracles given the difficulty of transporting and using such equipment. At Glencoul, they spent two hours trying to photograph Quinag, "but though other hills were clear it seemed to be in the vortex of a storm continually moving up and down, and it never for one moment gave us a chance. In the end our camera blew over!" The long days in the far north also gave them problems that now we would not think about: at Loch Eriboll "after supper we had to wander...up and down till it should be dark enough to change the photo plates. Even after this was done (finishing at midnight) it seemed to me, on extinguishing the red lamp, that I could see all round the white tent just as well as before, for which reason, when making a new tent I dyed the material reddish-brown. Our old tent was so low, too, that this same night, while changing the plates, a sudden shower ran inside onto my head (which was touching the top), down my waterproof - hastily donned - and over the plates: so that, between these two misadventures, I was afraid all was lost. No bad results, however, followed: but this defect had also to be remedied."
Two photos by John Walker. Suilven....
...and Stac Pollaidh.
Both men did a number of tours in Scotland. John Walker made seven, and reached Durness and the north coast. Henderson made three, one of which went as far north as Ullapool and Loch Maree. He managed to persuade his wife and a lady friend to join him on this latter expedition, on the condition that they stayed in hotels and inns rather than camping out each night. Other concessions were made: after trudging against the wind across 'Dirrie More', they hailed the mail coach with thirteen miles to go to their destination, and hoisted the ladies and their bikes aboard. They faced more challenges the next day, being drenched in heavy rain after leaving Dundonnell. "Rain fell incessantly, and occasionally for a mile or more we were enveloped in a thick mist, wetter even, if that were possible, than the rain. Still we plodded along - cycling against the strong, cold wind being impossible - always hoping and looking for some kind of termination to the dreary, twisting, evil-looking, narrow way in front. How cold, tiresome and miserable it was for the ladies I could easily imagime, but they never grumbled, and even pretended to enjoy it." However, once they had topped 'Druim na fuath', they were able to speed downhill, and they found welcome Highland hospitality at the house of the proprietor of the Gruinard Estate, the lady there taking pity on their "wet and bedraggled condition."
John Walker impresses me with his knowledge of geology. He points out the raised beaches ("Like a boat overladen on one side, the West coast has gone deeper into the water while the East Coast has risen"), and frequently reminds the reader of the prevailing strata at any one time on his travels. Between Laxford and Rhiconich, for example, "We were fairly in the country of the Archean gneiss, the oldest of British (or any other) rocks..."
"The country of Archean gneiss."
Indeed, Walker is completely up-to-date on geological matters, with a full grasp of the outcome of the Highlands Controversy: "Tremendous transformations have happened in this westward region, the rocks turned topsy-turvy, some mountains standing on their heads; and all due to the 'Moin thrust', the final expression of a great force which broke from underneath and pushed westward over-riding everything, and which now (exposed by denudation) runs as a distinct division line south for about a hundred miles. It is this geological history which has created the special features of the district, and which set geologists by the ears for something like thirty years. The full 'Memoir' on the subject is even yet not published." (The Memoir of the region was published by the Survey in 1907).
The accounts of these two intrepid cyclists end with details of what they carried, and how they carried it. A pillow, for example, they consider "absolutely necessary", but in the form of a pillow slip which is filled each night with ferns, etc. Provisions should include two half-loaves, and in tins, 2lbs of sugar, 1/4Ib tea, 1/4lb of cocoa, tinned meat to taste, butter and cheese. "J.W. uses a very small spirit lamp, with tripod above for his 6d tin kettle (which has seen three years' service); and a 10d bottle or tin of methylated spirit.
E.E.H. used the following more elaborate apparatus:
It is hard to see how all this equipment, to which must be added tent, sleeping bag, camera, tripod, plates, etc. could fit onto the bike as illustrated:
Yet manage they did, and they hope that "the large amount of pleasure which we have shown ourselves to have enjoyed, may now tempt others, provided they are willing to 'rough' it a little. Nearly all the young men home from the Boer War , whom we have met, are enthusiastic in their praise of outdoor life."